Breitling Navitimer 1959 Re-Edition

TBC has been looking at quite a few reissues and homages lately, and for good reason.  There are certain watches that transcend their functional origins to become cultural signifiers. The Breitling Navitimer is one of them.  Born in the cockpit and refined over decades, it has always been more than just a pilot’s tool.  With the release of the Navitimer Ref. 806 1959 Re-Edition in 2019, Breitling offered something rare and precious: a genuine dialogue between the past and the present.  What follows is not simply a review but a reflection on what it means to recreate an icon with integrity.

Photography by Ronald Chew

by The Balance Coq

  • June 2, 2025
6 scaled
The Legacy Reimagined

In 1952, the original Navitimer took flight as a watch designed explicitly for aviators, and by 1959, it had assumed the form most associated with the golden age of civil aviation.  The 2019 Re-Edition of the 806 is a painstaking homage to that very model.  Breitling did not merely borrow aesthetic cues.  They reverse-engineered the past with almost obsessive fidelity.

At 40.9 millimetres (Breitling insists it is 41mm, mind), the stainless steel case mirrors the original’s dimensions precisely, yet feels surprisingly contemporary on the wrist.  Its tall acrylic crystal, high-polish finish, and those all-important beaded bezel edges — exactly 94 beads, just as in 1959 — evoke a tactile sense of history.  This is not a modern reinterpretation so much as a resurrection, and Breitling’s decision to forego a sapphire crystal or date window speaks volumes about their intent.

Dialed-In Authenticity

The black dial, adorned with white subdials and minute attention to typography, is a lesson in restrained complexity.  Every numeral, logo, and marker has been replicated with such care that one suspects archival photographs and period watches were pored over under loupes for weeks on end.  The winged logo, sans the later “B” branding, instantly transports the wearer to the era of Pan-Am, starched uniforms, and the romance of long-haul travel.

Legibility, as always with the Navitimer, walks the line between tool and tableau.  The slide rule bezel and its logarithmic scales remain functional, though admittedly more nostalgic than necessary in the age of flight computers and GPS.  Still, its presence is what gives the Navitimer its singular identity.

UN Bucherer 30 scaled
UN Bucherer 26 scaled
Movement Matters

Inside beats the in-house Breitling caliber B09, a manually wound COSC-rated chronograph movement based on the B01.  It is a deliberate choice.  The hand-wound caliber not only allows for a thinner case profile but also maintains historical consistency.  The B09 offers a column wheel and vertical clutch architecture, a nod to horological purism.  It runs at 28,800 vibrations per hour and delivers 70 hours of power reserve – very respectable numbers.

To be sure, there is a quiet pleasure in winding this watch each morning.  The action is smooth, reassuring, and, in its own way, intimate.  This ritual underscores the connection between man and machine — something that defines the appeal of vintage timekeeping.

UN Bucherer 29 scaled
UN Bucherer 28 scaled
Closing Thoughts

If you have the chance to stare at it long enough, you would realise that the Navitimer Ref. 806 1959 Re-Edition is not just a revival.  It is an act of reverence.  Breitling has resisted the temptation to modernise what was already timeless, and in doing so, they have created a watch that appeals not only to collectors but to anyone who believes that design should carry memory.

Watches, like stories, are best when they are passed down.  This one feels like a story told with care, with love, and with all the richness of a time worth remembering.  If George Kern is going to look at reviving the Universal Genève and Gallet brands in a similar fashion, we are all in for a great time ahead.

UN Bucherer 27 scaled
UN Bucherer 25 scaled

Specifications

BrandTudor
ModelBlack Bay P-01
ReferenceM70150-0001
Case MaterialStainless steel with a satin-brushed finish
Case Width42mm
Case Height14.5mm
Lug Width20mm
Water Resistance200m / 660ft
MovementTudor MT5612 (Manufacture movement)
ProductionCurrent
WearsLarger than size suggests due to lug design

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