Rolex Submariner 14060

Trigger question – is the Rolex Submariner 14060 vintage or modern?  Kindly arrange your match-ups according to weight classes, which, TBC feels, is the fairest way of making a fight club work.  Let us know the results and we will be posting those up.  Our money’s on the vintage folks – those guys will surprise you with their energy levels when triggered.  What we hear is that going below the belt is certainly not beneath them.

Photography by Ronald Chew

by The Balance Coq

  • September 25, 2023

What hasn’t already been written about the Rolex Submariner?

More to the point, we all have read everything there is to read about the supposed last-of-the-best Submariner (or even more broadly, Rolex – if you speak to the right crazy people collectors), the Reference 14060.  There is just something about an old Submariner that conjures up the image of the late Sir Thomas Sean Connery in his salad days, dressed up in a tuxedo with a 6538 mounted on an ill-fitting textile strap.  Apparently, the “modern” ceramic bezel Submariners are just too well-made to be romanticised.

The evolutionary pace of the Submariner has been thoughtfully glacial, and the core Submariner design ethos – the black bezel, black dial, and large markers – has been steadfastly maintained.  It is not a wild overstatement to say that the Submariner is the leading influence for the entire dive watch category.  So many imitators – some novel, some slavish – have made, and continue to make, attempts to bake a better cake with the same ingredients.

The 14060 represents, in many ways, the alpha and omega of the Submariner.  Following the Reference 5513, the Reference 14060 marks the next generation of the iconic no-date Submariner and is importantly considered one of the first modern Rolex Submariner references, breaking with the previous four-digit vintage era.  Serendipitously, it is (along with the chronometer-certified 14060M) also one of the last non-ceramic bezel Submariners.  The 14060 is the first No Date Submariner to be fitted with a sapphire glass and features a new unidirectional bezel.  It has an upgraded water resistance to 300 metres (up from 200 metres), courtesy of an updated case design (at only 12mm thick).

Its Oyster steel bracelet is a curious holdover from the four-digit era, hollow and to be frank, at odds with the quality on the rest of the watch.  This component is perhaps the Achilles heel of the watch, which can be remedied very easily, whether it be a $2 NATO single pass strap or a pair of $600 bespoke exotic leather straps.

At the end of the day, if you can land a good example of the 14060 on any of the reseller platforms, delay no more.

Specifications

BrandRolex
ModelSubmariner
Reference14060
Case Material904L Stainless steel
Case Width40mm
Case Height12mm
Lug Width20mm
Water Resistance300m
MovementRolex Calibre 3000
ProductionDiscontinued
WearsTrue to size

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