Seiko SLA033

Before Seiko’s modern dive watches got Prospex’d into submission and every model came with an “X” on the dial and a brochure’s worth of branding, there was a quiet, unassuming legend.  The SLA033, a limited-run tribute to the original 6105-8110—better known as the “Captain Willard”—was Seiko at its most reverent and restrained.  No marketing hyperbole.  No gloss.  Just a faithful revival of one of the most iconic military-issue divers ever worn into war, into the jungle, and on collectors’ wrists.

Photography by Ronald Chew

by Terence Tee

  • July 1, 2025
Willard in Apocalypse Now

This is Martin Sheen as Captain Willard in the seminal Apocalypse Now, in case you were wondering (credit: ScreenRant)

The Seiko SLA033 “Captain Willard” – A Cult Classic Reimagined, Before the Prospex Age

In the world of vintage-inspired dive watches, few names carry the same whiff of myth and mud-slicked jungle gravitas as the Seiko “Captain Willard.”  Originally the 6105-8110, it was the sidekick to Martin Sheen’s sweat-drenched forehead in Apocalypse Now, and perhaps the only watch on screen that looked like it might actually survive the entire Vietnam War unscathed.

Fast-forward several decades and Seiko, ever the master of knowing exactly how to pluck the heartstrings of collectors without entirely draining their wallets (at least relative to the Swiss), reissued the beloved “Willard” in 2019 as the SLA033.  Crucially, this version harks back to the original’s spirit with the kind of tasteful restraint that suggests someone at Seiko HQ whispered, “Let’s not screw this up,” and then — for once — everyone listened.

This is the earlier SLA033 we’re talking about.  The one with no “X” logo disfiguring the dial.  No branding committee intervention.  No reminders that you are part of the Prospex family, whether you like it or not.  What you get instead is a clean, inky-black dial with bold painted markers, hands like miniature machetes, and a case shape that makes every other diver look like they’ve been doing push-ups wrong.

4 1 scaled

Case and Design: Asymmetry with Attitude

The case on the SLA033 should be immediately familiar, not because you have seen it in your local boutique, but because you have seen it a thousand times on collector forums, in grainy photos from Southeast Asia in the ’70s, and on the wrists of the kind of men who jump out of helicopters.  It is asymmetrical.  It is curvy.  It is unapologetically weird, like a Porsche 914 or Tom Selleck’s mustache.

At 45mm in diameter, the specs sound aggressive on paper, but in practice, it wears like a considerably more polite 42.5mm watch, thanks to the case curvature and short lugs that embrace your wrist like a long-lost friend who smells faintly of DEET and gunpowder.

The monobloc case construction remains, which means this thing is basically a metal canteen with a crystal screwed on top.  You don’t open the back—there is no back. If it breaks, you send it to someone braver than you to fix it. Water resistance is rated to 200 meters, which is 100 more meters than any of us will ever actually need.

Movement: High-Beat Heart, Quiet Ambition

Beating within the jungle-hardened case is the Seiko 8L35 automatic movement, assembled in the Shizukuishi Watch Studio—the very same sacred space where Grand Seikos are born.  Think of it as the wild, unshaven cousin of the Grand Seiko 9S55.  Same bloodline, fewer cotter pins polished to mirror perfection.

The 8L35 ticks away at 28,800 vibrations per hour and has a power reserve of around 50 hours, which is long enough to get lost in the Vietnamese jungle and still make it back in time for dinner, watch still ticking.  Accuracy-wise, it is officially listed as -10 to +15 seconds per day, though in practice, most SLA033s perform well within that.  No, it is not COSC-certified, but this watch does not need a certificate.  It needs a machete and a compass.

UN Bucherer 5 scaled
UN Bucherer 4 scaled

Dial and Bezel: Simplicity Done Right

The dial is everything you want in a tool watch, really — matte, legible, and devoid of clutter.  The date window at 3 o’clock is framed with just enough subtlety to make you appreciate it, but not so much that it yells.  The indices are generously filled with LumiBrite, Seiko’s proprietary luminous compound that glows like it was forged in the core of a dying star.

Then there is that bezel.  A faithful recreation of the 6105’s — coin-edged, 60-minute countdown, with just the right amount of resistance.  It is the kind of bezel that says, “I will time your dive, your ramen noodles, and your silent contemplation of mortality with equal dignity.”

On the Wrist: Comfortable, Distinct, Unmistakable

The SLA033 does not sit on the wrist so much as it perches there, ready to leap into action.  Its slightly off-kilter profile gives it character in a world of symmetrical, soulless circles.  You know it when you see it.  Other divers may blend in.  The Willard stares back, with just a hint of PTSD.

It ships on a waffle-style silicone strap, a fitting nod to the original’s tropic-style rubber.  It is comfortable enough, though many owners end up swapping it out for something leather, canvas, or NATO-based in homage to Captain Willard’s own field rig.

UN Bucherer 6 scaled
UN Bucherer 3 scaled

Limited Edition, Unlimited Appeal

Only 2,500 pieces were made of this Prospex-free SLA033, and that, frankly, is a shame.  It deserved a broader audience.  But then again, perhaps it is better this way.  Some watches are made to be loved by everyone.  Others are made to be understood.

This one is the latter.

Final Thoughts

The Seiko SLA033 is not just a tribute (and we say that a lot here at TBC, but it is true every single time) — it is a time capsule, sealed in steel and spirit.  It reminds us that design doesn’t need to shout, that history doesn’t need to be rewritten, and that sometimes, the best watches come from a place where utility meets legend.

This is not a watch that begs for attention.  It earns it.  Quietly.  Persistently.  Like the slow beat of a rotor in the heart of the jungle.

UN Bucherer 2 scaled
UN Bucherer scaled

Specifications

BrandSeiko
Model –
ReferenceSLA033
Case MaterialStainless steel
Case Width45mm
Case Height13mm
Lug-to-Lug49.7mm
Water Resistance200m / 660ft
MovementCaliber 8L35 automatic movement
ProductionLimited to 2500 pieces
WearsSmaller than size suggests due to lug design

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