The Rise And Fall (And Rise Again) Of Exaequo

The watch world is full of stories about brands that burned bright and disappeared, only to return like a phoenix from the ashes.  Exaequo, the Geneva-based company behind the Softwatch, is one of them.  Founded in the early 1990s, Exaequo set out to create timepieces that blurred the lines between horology and art, drawing heavy inspiration from the surrealist master himself, Salvador Dalí.  Their most famous creation, the Softwatch, was a watch quite literally ahead of (or perhaps outside?) its time, paying homage to Dalí’s legendary 1931 painting, The Persistence of Memory.

Unfortunately, Exaequo’s creative ambition was met with a harsh legal reality — using Dalí’s name and imagery without official permission was a ticking time bomb. By 1998, the brand was forced to close its doors, but the Softwatch had already cemented itself as a cult classic.  Fast forward a couple of decades, and the watch’s unmistakable design still captivates collectors and art lovers alike, proving that even in its absence, the brand’s legacy endured.

No One-Size-Fits-All Solution

We have the chance to take a look at a pair of Softwatches.  The smaller white-dial beauty is from the initial release.  The gold-dial version is a Reference 92006 specimen, running larger in all dimensions (length, width and lug width) compared to the first series.  What is remarkable is that whilst the dimensions are visibly more generous, the proportions remain intact.  If anything, wearability has been improved with the later series on account of the wider lugs.  The Reference 92006 would wear well on any wrists up to 7.5 inches without looking comically small.  That said, the first series is no slouch, and would happily accommodate collectors who are more comfortable with vintage watches.

Design: A Clock That Forgot Its Shape

The Softwatch is one of those rare timepieces that challenges the very idea of what a watch should look like.  Inspired by Dalí’s melted, dreamlike clocks, the case itself appears to be in a state of fluid distortion, as if time is slipping right off your wrist.  The dial follows suit, featuring Roman numerals that look like they have been caught in the same gravitational pull as the case.

The hands are simple, but that’s part of the charm—this isn’t a watch that prioritises readability (or time-telling. More on that in a bit…) over aesthetics.  The Reference 92006 comes in a gold-plated case with a striking asymmetrical form, paired with a printed leather strap mimicking alligator leather.  With an 18mm lug width, it offers a comfortable yet bold presence on the wrist.  It is surrealism you can wear, and that’s something you do not see every day in the watch world.

If you were to view these watches as time-telling instruments, you would be sorely disappointed.  The handsets sit at the narrowest part of the dials for both versions, making actual time-telling a bit of a hunting exercise when the longer minutes hands sweep into the 2, 3, 4, 8 9 and 10 Roman numerals.  Time-telling is strictly performative with the Softwatches.

A Tribute To Dalí (But Not An Official One)

While the Softwatch is clearly a loving nod to The Persistence of Memory, it is worth noting that Exaequo never had the rights to use Salvador Dalí’s name or work.  This oversight led to its eventual demise in the late ’90s, though by that point, the Softwatch had already taken on a life of its own.  Even today, it remains one of the most visually striking homages to Dalí’s art, proving that a little controversy never hurts when it comes to building a legend.

On The Wrist

Owning a Softwatch is probably more about the experience than it is about telling time.  You would not be far off the mark if you described the Softwatch as a conversation starter – an art piece masquerading as a timepiece.  Indeed, reading the time on it is secondary — because when your watch looks like something straight out of a Dalí dreamscape, you’re not really in a rush, are you?  If ever there was a competition for over-designed, form-over-function watches, the Softwatch is a shoe-in for a podium finish, surely. It is to that degree that we do not have a lot of details about the watches’ quartz movements. This was the early 1990s after all.  Suffice to say, in the time that TBC had the pair, they kept time competently.

A word of caution though for prospective buyers is that they should be mindful of the watch’s unusual shape.  The case’s asymmetry can make it sit … differently … on the wrist compared to conventional designs, which adds to its charm but may take some getting used to.  As with any niche collectible, condition and authenticity are key — given its cult status, there are some less-than-authentic versions floating around the market.

Final Thoughts

The Exaequo Softwatch is not your everyday watch, and that’s precisely what makes it special.  It occupies a unique space where horology and art collide, offering a wearable piece of surrealism that defies convention.  For those who appreciate watches that tell more than just time — watches that tell a story — the Softwatch is a delightfully weird and wonderful addition to any collection.

And we made it to the end without mentioning that Cartier.  That has to unlock some kind of achievement, I’m sure.