Tudor Pelagos FXD

The Tudor Pelagos FXD was launched in typical Tudor fashion in 2021.  That is to say, almost no one saw it coming.  Those who knew it was going to be the Pelagos’ turn for a remake thought the new Pelagos was going to be smaller, re-designed or maybe presented in a different colour.  Geneva ran off the beaten path.  The sheer temerity in taking an established dive watch product and giving it fixed lugs, along with a stealthy bag of tweaks. The next time someone says the Rolex group is conservative and safe, just remind them of what Tudor has done with the FXD.

Photography by Ronald Chew

by The Balance Coq

  • August 5, 2023

In the flesh, the FXD is a revelation.  It looks like a standard blue dial Pelagos, but it is also most definitely not.  It feels lighter.  It looks less tall, almost svelte. And then your eyes finally catch the F in FXD – the fixed lugs. When you run your fingers around all the edges, every aspect is well machined and feels sturdy enough for any elite French military secret mission.

Once you have taken in the spectacle of the large scale changes, the more subtle ones come into focus.  For example, the bezel actually overhangs over the case to provide better grip.  Another tweak is that the bezel now has a 30 degree slope on the topside along with the bottom side making it much easer to manipulate. The bidirectional countdown bezel, on a dive watch, is a curious inclusion. Was it designed in collaboration with the French elite Commando Hubert diver’s team for the benefit of the intended demographic of desk divers?  Or perhaps, it is simply channeling Tudor’s “Born To Dare” brand ethos?

One design change that is not quite so polarising is the date window on the Pelagos.  Geneva did away with the date window on the FXD, and it changes the entire look of the watch. The matte blue finish provides an exquisite backdrop for the applied hour markers and hands, which are treated with luminescent material for optimal legibility in low-light conditions.  The dial is objectively cleaner and subdued, wearing a white-on-sky-blue colour scheme that just pops.  The crown has also been redesigned with deeper and more defined notching, closer to its Rolex cousin.

The case is indeed thinner at 12.75mm, a not-insignificant drop of 1.55mm from the standard Pelagos.  All these subtle changes here and there, and shaving of millimetres have resulted in a very wearable dive watch.  It is by no means a little puck, but the Pelagos FXD is no DSSD.

In what has become a tradition with Pelagos packaging, the FXD comes with two straps – a fabric strap and a single pass rubber strap in blue.  Admittedly, the fixed lug slots limit your aftermarket strap options when it comes to dressing up the FXD.  While not quite the strap monster the Omega Speedmaster is, the FXD wears its fair share of single pass NATO straps quite handsomely.  Aftermarket strap makers are coming up with more choices for FXD owners.  TBC is happy to report that comfort remains a paramount consideration.  The watch wears decently, so long as you can pull off a 42mm watch with 52mm lug-to-lug on strap. The slim titanium case means that the watch will sit happily on most wrists without being top-heavy.

Tudor’s proven workhorse MT5602 movement powers the FXD.  It is an officially certified chronometer (You can’t miss it – it says so right there on the dial) with 70 hours of reserve and a non-magnetic silicon balance spring.  Frankly, there is not much else to want in a movement.

On paper, the FXD reads like a hotchpotch of ideas for what must be a thought exercise.  In reality, all the elements tie up well in a bold and convincingly cohesive package.   The FXD seamlessly merges innovation and tradition to redefine the dive watch.  In fact, TBC might be so bold as to say it would acquit itself rather well against a no-date Submariner.  This timepiece is more of a statement than a product; it is a testament to Tudor’s unwavering commitment to excellence in craftsmanship, and product design cajones.  It is not everyone’s cup of tea.  And it shouldn’t.  For innovation’s sake, let us all hope Geneva continues to venture off the beaten track.

Specifications

BrandTudor
ModelPelagos FXD
Reference25707B
Case MaterialTitanium
Case Diameter42mm
Case Height12.75mm
Lug-to-Lug52mm
Lug Width22mm
MovementTudor MT5602 COSC-certified, automatically-wound, 4Hz, 70h of power reserve
ProductionYour guess is as good as ours
WearsTrue to size

Recent Posts